Bishop's Best Bitter

Ah - Thanksgiving in Canada is today's holiday, and while it is clearly a secular celebration, the word holiday implies that something of a more ecclesiastical nature could be brought into the picture. So, while mixing the profane and the profound, let's get together those old partners in un-crime - brewery and church, which as we know have produced memorable partnerships over the centuries, particularly in the form of Trappist Breweries (such as Chimay and Orval) and Bieres D'Abbay in Belgium (such as Grimbergen and Maredsous), as well as Abteibrauereien in Germany (such as Andechs and Weihenstephan).

Our beer today comes from Quebec's longest operating brewery, the Golden Lion Brewery and Brewpub in Lennoxville. It opened its taps to the world in 1986, at roughly the same time as the Massawippi Brewing Company just around the corner in North Hatley. The latter was sold a few years later and eventually became Unibroue of Chambly. The Golden Lion is one of those regional phenomena, surviving on the strength of local success in Quebec's Eastern Townships, known there and to the devoted beerofiles in Quebec City and Montreal, but not much beyond. And why should they venture much further, as growth beyond the comfort zone can bring demise very quickly in this business? Unlike the Belgian and German alliances between heaven and earth mentioned above, The Golden Lion focuses on making British style ales. This Bishop's Best Bitter is full of double-entendre, bringing the vicar in touch with his suds, signalling the Brewery's association with the local post-secondary institution, Bishop's University, and opening a window in the wonderful tongue-in-cheek world of Quebec beer and beer label design.

This beer is perfectly placed between a traditional pale ale and an IPA, having a nice dark copper colour and creamy head that stood on its own like the white beard of an old monk sleeping in a hammock. Its nose is almost in IPA hops territory, featuring plenty of citrus and floral aromas. The malt is primarily dark caramel and toffee, but also producing a slight grain acidity that mingles well with the grapefruit hops tastes in the middle of the palate. The finish is at first quite spicy, with more grapefruit tangy, and then slowly blends into a lingering dry bitterness. Very satisfying, I must say, and worthy of its holy designation.

The bishop's delighted face on the label reminds me of a friend of mine after a few pints - a friend who shares his last name with the name of the town Lennoxville. How fitting!